Scratch-building: Tools
More ways to cut styrene and injure yourself
Specialty Tools
One of the biggest problems with scratch-building is finding the right tools for the jobs you have. Unfortunately, there aren't many "catch-all" tools. Rather, there are several specialized tools that each have specific uses. So, I think it would be helpful to list the tools I use and any tips/tricks I've found that might be useful.
- Cuts styrene strips to make duplicates.
- Thicker pieces/tubes will make the arm bow outward, so cut slightly into the piece, rotate, and repeat until you cut through.
- I prefer this for miter cuts. I still think that straight 90 degree cuts are easier with the above Chopper.
- They make several tools with a nice miter gauge for chopping, sawing, and sanding.
- My most used is the Miter Sander, which does wonders at trueing an edge.
- Extremely useful for slicing the super-thin .13mm styrene sheets that you cannot score and snap. I only use the .13 mm for making raised-panel greeblies, as the thickness is perfect for smaller scales.
Also, check out my Brass & Photo-Etch page, where I talk about a few other tools you might find interesting.
Making Circles
Now, at some point during scratch-building, you may need to make dials or circles for your models. This is where you have to have specialty tools to form the shape perfectly. I have 2 tools in my inventory to accomplish this. However, there are several out there that work just as well.
- Punches go from 2mm to 4.5 mm
- Useful for dials, rivets, bolt-heads, etc.
- Clear top allows you to center styrene sheets
- They make a smaller version and 2 hexagonal punch sets
- Cuts from 1/4 inch to 6 inches
- Use calipers to measure the length from needle tip to blade (this gives you the radius of the circle)
- Comes with a black rubber pivot point so the needle won't mar the surface
- I haven't used this yet, but it looks promising.
- It's made to drill out the ends of rods.
- OR you can drill perfectly centered into rods/tubes from the top.
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